Having missed most of LFW due to being on holiday, I decided this time around I would wait for all four fashion weeks to finish and review the show highlights in one go. For me, this fashion month has been particularly on point due to a subtle shift in focus on wearability, such as Christopher Kane’s ‘Flower’ jumpers and Peter Pilotto’s delectable separates, without compromising on creativity of design. I also loved the particularly strong emphasis on texture (cashmere at Burberry, exotic skins at Tom Ford) and 90s references including oversized jackets at Carven, spaghetti straps and exposed midriffs. What’s more, the new season doesn’t require a complete wardrobe overhaul; AW13′s definitive trends such as monochrome, pastels, contrasting textures, voluminous shapes, and sports luxe have been re-worked and are here to stay.
Fashion Week wouldn’t be fashion week without some drama. Let’s not forget the announcement of Marc Jacobs’ exit from Louis Vuitton – after 16 years at the fashion power house, he has chosen to focus on his own line. Rick Owens used step dancers for models and a runway turned dance talent show featured at Jean Paul Gaultier. Moschino & DKNY also turned up the fun factor with celebrations of re-worked ‘greatest hits’ after turning 30 & 25 years this year, respectively.
Clockwise from left; 3.1 Phillip Lim, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham
I fell in love with the fresh, urban take on femininity on New York’s runways. From Phillip Lim’s landscape inspired collection to Alexander Wang’s tomboyish silhouettes, there was an edgy yet completely wearable feel about the collections. Victoria Beckham also made a dramatic move away from her previous prim and proper uptown style, to join the downtown boy-meets girl style camp. However, it was impossible to escape from the beautiful, girly romance as seen at Marchesa and Oscar de la Renta. Swoon.
Clockwise from left; Opening Ceremony, Prabal Gurung, Marchesa, Oscar de la Renta
Clockwise from left; Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, J W Anderson, Mary Katrantzou
Personally, I’ve never been so impressed and excited by London’s SS14 shows. The superb, almost literal execution of a simple idea such as flowers, in the case of Christopher Kane or shoes, by Mary Katrantzou demonstrated London’s ability to innovate and re-invent the wheel of design. Meanwhile, Peter Pilotto and J W Anderson placed structure and volume at the heart their collections. Whilst Peter Pilotto referenced volcanic influences in both colour and shape, J W Anderson contrasted opposing fabrics and silhouettes.
Clockwise from left; Burberry Prorsum, Simone Rocha, Tom Ford, Erdem
Clockwise from left; Moschino, Gucci, Pucci, Prada
WOW. From Moschino’s greatest hits to Prada’s eccentric furs and be-jewelled bras, Milan was a huge celebration of the empowerment of women through fashion. Sexy, exotic sport was the theme at Gucci and Pucci, with track pants adorned with sequins and sleek silhouettes, oozing chic Italian glamour.
Clockwise from left; Dolce & Gabbana, Maxmara, Sportmax, Marni
Clockwise from left; Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Elie Saab, Carven
Marc Jacobs’ last show for Louis Vuitton was a celebration of the showgirl. Jacobs went back to black in recognition of his first show for the iconic fashion house, with models including Edie campbell adorned with feather headresses and chains against a set featuring the most iconic structures from his previous shows; escalators, the hotel corridors, the fountain and the clock. Mesmerising and dramatic, Jacobs went out with a bang.
For me, Valentino and Carven were two of my favourite shows from Paris. Valentino’s 73 looks were romantic, exotic and ornate, using heavily embroidered, beading and fringe detailing, inspired by a visit to a Rome Opera workshop. Despite the detail and history in the looks, they were easily wearable and versatile in any modern wardrobe. The Carven collection of 90s inspired oversized camouflage jackets, midriff bearing separates and barbie-esque colours were playful yet modern.
Clockwise from left; Christian Dior, Stella McCartney, Celine, Balenciaga
What were your highlights from SS14′s fashion weeks?
Photo credit: All photos taken from vogue.com